6th International workshop on wave hindcasting and forecasting

November 6-10, 2000  - Monterey, California

Preprints of papers, published by Environment Canada

full text available via: http://repository.tudelft.nl/view/hydro/uuid:ed727b97-db13-432c-854d-09a547c3654e/

Session A: Wind Estimations

A1 The AES40 North Atlantic Wave Reanalysis: Validation and
Climate Assessment; Val R. Swail, Environment Canada, Ontario, Canada, E.A.
Ceccacci and A. T. Cox., Oceanweather, Inc., Cos Cob, CT .............................................. 1

A2 Effect of Wind Estimation Method on Long Term Wave Hindcast at the
Coastal Area around Japan; Masataka Yamaguchi, Yoshio Hatada, and
Hirokazu Nonaka, Ehime University, Ehime Prefecture, Japan ........................................ 16

A3 Improving Wind Input Information for Great Lakes Wave Hindcast Study;
Lihwa Lin and Donald T. Resio, U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center,
Vicksburg, MS ... ... ........ .......... ............................ ........................................... ................. 29

Session B: Wave Measurements
B1 Airborne Optical Measurements for Estimating Directional Wave Spectra,
Currents and Water Depth; J.Z. Wi/liams, C.C. Piotrowski" J.P. Dugan, and D.C.
Campion, Arete Associates, Arlington, VA .... .. ...................... .. .. ................ ...................... ..

B2 Wave Information Inferred from Synthetic Aperture Radar Images
Used to Improve Numerical Simulation of Directional Wave Spectra
in the Coastal Zone; F.J. Ocampo-Torres and P. Rosales, CICESE, Enesnada, BC,
Mexico ..... ........................................................................................................................ .

B3 Biomodal Directional Distribution of Ocean Waves in Mixed Seas; David W. Wang,
Paul A. Hwang, James M. Kaihatu, and W. Erick Rogers, Naval Research Laboratory,
Stennis Space Center, MS ............................................................................................. ..

B5 Validation of the Doppler Shifted Dispersion Relation for Waves in the
Presence of Strong Tidal Currents, using ADCP Wave Directional Spectra
and Comparison Data; B. Strong, and B. Brumley, RD Instruments, San Diego,
CA; E.A. Terray, Woods H,ole Oceanographic Institution, Woods Hole, MA;
Nicholas C. Kraus, U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center,
Vicksburg, MS .................................................................................................................. .

B6 Measurement of Wave Field Histories in Hydraulic Models Using Phase
Profilometry; Cary Cox, Barry McCleave, James Troupe, Charles R. Welch,
William Seabergh, and William Curtis, U. S. Engineer Research and Development
Center, Vicksburg, MS .................. : .................................................................................. .

Session C: Performance of Existing Prediction Systems

C1 Wave Modelling in Archipelagic Seas: The Aegean Sea Case;
S. Christopoulos and C. Koutitas, Aristotle University of Thessaloniki,
Thessaloniki, Greece ...................................................................................................... .

C2 Providing Operational WavelSurf Support During NATO Exercise
Linked Seas 2000; Richard A. Allard, Naval Research Laboratory, Stennis
Space Center, MS; Michael Brooking, James Dykes, Naval Oceanographic
Office, Stennis Space Center, MS; Kelley Miles, Sverdrup Technology Inc.,
Stennis Space Center, MS ............................................................................................... .

C3 Comparison of Two Years Wind and Wave Hindcast via WAM Based
Operational Forecasting System Versus Field and Other Models Data; I. Gertman,
L. Raskin, and D. S. Rosen, Israel Oceanographic & Limnological Research, Haifa,
Israel; and S. Kariel, Israel Defense Forces, Tel Aviv, Israel ............................................. .

C4 Evaluation of the CMC Regional Wind and Wave Forecasting System
During A 3-Year Period; Roop Lalbeharry, Meteorological Service of Canada,
Ontario, Canada ............................................................................................................... .

C5Wind Wave Forecasting on the Great Lakes; Weimin K Luo, Roop Lalbeharry,
and Laurie Wilson, Meteorological Service of Canada, Ontario, Canada ........................... .

C6 A Wave Modelling Study of an Intense Storm in Bass Strait, Australia;
Diana J. Greenslade, Bureau of Meteorology Research Centre, Melbourne,
Australia ..................................................................................................................... .

Session D: Wave Prediction for Tropical Systems
Chair: Linwood Vincent, Office of Naval Research and Naval Research Laboratory

D1 Determination of Oceanographic Risks from Hurricanes on the Mexican
Coast; R. Silva, G. Diaz, A. Contreras, G. Bautista, and C. Sanchez, Instituto de
Ingenieria, Mexico ............................................................................................................ .

D2 Coupled Ocean Wave-Atmosphere Simulation using the Navy's COAMPS;
James D. Doyle, Naval Research Laboratory, Monterey, CA ............................................ .
Operational System for the Prediction of Tropical Cyclone Generated

D3 Winds and Waves: Andrew T. Cox and Vincent J. Cardone, Oceanweather, Inc., Cos
Cob, CT ............ : ............................................................................................................ .
D4 Numerical Experiments on Predicting Hurricane Generated Wind Waves;
Yung Y. Chao and Hendrik L. Tolman, National Centers for Environmental
Prediction, NOAA, Camp Springs, MD .............................................................................. .

Session E: Wave Climate: Estimation and Implication I

E1 Design Wave Evaluation for Coastal Protection Structures in the
Wadden Sea; Hanz D. Niemeyer, Ralf Kaiser, and Bettina Weiler, Coastal Research
Station of the Lower Saxon Central State Board for Ecology, East Frisia, Germany .......... .

E2 Wave Climate Studies for the Southern Indian Ocean; R. Douglas Scott and Tad
Murty, Baird and Associates Coastal Engineers Ltd., Ontario, Canada and Rob Del Core,
Hydrogenics, Ontario, Canada ........................................................................................ .

E3 An Approach Towards a 40-year High-Resolution Wave Hindcast for the
Southern North Sea; Ralf Weisse and Gerhard Gayer, GKSS Research Center,
Geesthacht, Germany ................................................................................................... .

E4 Specification of Global Wave Climate: Is This The Final Answer?; Vincent
J .. Cardone, Andrew T. Cox, Ocean weather, Inc., Cos Cob, CT; Val R.
Swail, Environment Canada, Ontario, Canada .................................................................. .

Session F: Wave Climate: Estimation and Implication II

F1 An Efficient Approach to Wave Climate Analysis in Coastal Waters;
Mauro Sclavo, CNR-/SDGM, Venice, Italy; G.A. Athanassoulis, Department of
Naval Architecture & Mar. Engng., Athens, Greece; S. Barstow, Ocean or, Trondheim,
Norway; Luigi Cavaleri, CNR-/SDGM, Venice, Italy .......................................................... .

F2 Joint Distribution for Waves and Current in the Northern North Sea; Kenneth
Johannessen, Einar Nygaard, Sverre Haver, Per Strass, Statoil, Stavanger, Norway ........ .

F3 Integrating Metocean Models with Structural Response Models; Don Smith,
UK Health and Safety Executive, London, UK ............................................................. .

F4 Rapidly Simulated Ship Buoyancy and Wake in Waves, from Graphics Hardware;
Anthony B. Williams, Independent Consultant, Monterey, CA ........................................... .

F5 Comparison of Hindcast Results and Extreme Value Estimates for Wave
Conditions in the Hibernia Area: Grand Banks of Newfoundland; E.P. Berek,
Metocean,' Coastal, and Offshore Technologies, LLC, Flower Mound, TX, Vincent J.
Cardone, Ocean weather, Inc., Cos Cob, CT; Val R. Swail, Meteorological Service of
Canda, Ontario, Canada ......... ....................................... : ................................................. .

Session G: Deep Model Formulation I

G1 One Year Comparison of Wave Hindcasts by Backward Ray Tracing Model and
WAM; Yoshio Hatada, Masataka Yamaguchi, Hirokazu Nonaka, Ehime University, Ehime
Prefecture, Japan ......................................................................................................... .

G2 Long-Range Swell Forecasting Using Source Term Output From Global Wave
Models; William C. O'Reilly, U.S. Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey, CA; Paul
Wittmann, Fleet Numerical Meteorology and Oceanography Center, Monterey, CA

G3 Spectral Partitioning as a Wave Hindcast Validation Tool; Jeffery L. Hanson, The
John Hopkins University, Laurel, MD ............................................... ........................... .

G4 A Discussion on the Directional Distribution of Wind-Generated Ocean Waves; Paul
A. Hwang, David W Wang, W Erick Rogers, and James M. Kaihatu, Naval Research
Laboratory, Stennis Space Center, MS ............................................................................. .

Session H: Deep Model Formulation II

H1 Investigations of Swell Effects on Directional Characteristics of Wind Waves Using
Phase-Resolved Nonlinear Models; James M. Kaihatu, David WC. Wang, Paul A.
Hwang, and W Erick Rogers, Naval Research Laboratory, Stennis Space Center, MS .....

H2 Modeling Bimodal Wind-Wave Propagation Resonance; W Erick Rogers, Paul A.
Hwang, James M. Kaihatu, David W C. Wang, Naval Research Laboratory, Stennis
Space Center, MS ............................................................................................................ .

H3 Extreme Northerly Wind Storms in the Eastern Mediterranean Basin and Their
Wave Impact in Deep Water in Haifa Bay; Yochanan Kushnir, Lamont-Doherty Earth
Observatory of Columbia University, Palisades, NY; Michael Stiassnie, Dmitry Kunitsa,
Michael Glozman, Israel Institute of Technology, Technion, Haifa, Israel ........................ .

H4 Impact of A Saturation-Dependent Dissipation Source Term on the Skill of an
Operational Wind-Wave Model; Jose Henrique G.M. Alves and Michael L. Banner,
University of New South Wales, Sydney, Austalia; Diana Greenslade, Bureau of
Meteorology Research Centre, Melbourne, Australia ................................................. .

Session I: Shallow Model Formulation I

I1 Delft3D Nearshore Wave and Current Predictions Compared with Field
Observations; LCDR Bruce Morris and Edward B. Thornton, Naval Post
Graduate School, Monterey, California .......................................................................... .

I2 Intercomparison of Different Bottom Friction Formulations in Extreme
Shallow Water Regions; Roberto Padilla-Hernandez and Jaak Monbaliu,
Katholieke Universiteit Leuven, Heverlee, Belgium ........................................................... .

I3 Swell Propagation in Shallow Water; Fabrice Ardhuim, Thomas H.C. Herbers, and
William C. O'Reilly, Naval Post Graduate School, Monterey, California ............................. .

I4 Bed Form Response to Wave and Current Forcing During the Shoaling
Waves Experiment, SHOWEX; Timothy P. Stanton, Naval Post Graduate
School, Monterey, California ............................................................................................ .

I5 Near Shore Bore Propagation and Splashing Processes: Gridless Simulations; A.
Colagrossi and M.P. Tulin, Ocean Engineerng Laboratory, Roma, Italy and M. Landrini,
INSEAN, The Italian Ship Model Basin, Italy ..................................................................... .

Session J: Shallow Model Formulation II

J1 Development of a New Source Term for Wave Breaking in Shallow
Water; David Hurdle and Gerbrant van Vledder, Alkyon Hydraulic
Consultancy & Research, Emmeloord, The Netherlands ................................................. .

J2 Oceanic and Near·Shore Whitecapping Effects in SWAN; L.H. Holthuijsen and N.
Booij, Delft University of Technology, Delft, The Netherlands ............................................ .

J3 Benchmark Tests of STWAVE; Jane McKee Smith, U.S. Army Engineer
Research and Development Center, Vicksburg, MS ............................................... .

J4 Application and Validation of the Navy Standard Surf Model: SURF 3.1; Theodore R.
Mettlach, Neptune Sciences, Inc., Slidell, LA; Y. Larry Hsu, Naval Research Laboratory,
Stennis Space Center, MS; Marshall D. Earle, and Daniel Osiecki, Neptune Sciences,
Inc., Slidell, LA ............................................................................................................... .

J5 Use of Coupled Wave Models to Simulate Near Shore Waves, C.S. Wu, National
Weather Service, Silver Spring, MD and O.G. Nwogu, Stevens Institute of Technology,
Hoboken, NJ ............................................................. .. .. ........ .. .. .......................... ...... .. .

Session K: Shallow Model Formulation III

K1 Wind Waves and Swell in Los Angeles Bay; V. Kalmykov and Reid Nichols, Marine
Information Resources Corporation, Ellicott, Maryland ................................................. .

K2 Application of SWAN in Mississippi Sound; Y. Larry Hsu, W. Erick Rogers, James M.
Kaihatu and Richard A. Allard, Naval Research Laboratory, Stennis Space Center, MS ....

K3 Nonlinear Mechanisms in a Harbor/Coastal Wave Transformation Model:
Enhancements to CGWAVE; Vijay Panchang, W. Chen, L. Zhao, University
of Maine, Orono, Maine; Z. Demirbilek, U.S. Army Engineer Research & Deve/opment
Center, Vicksburg, MS ..................................................................................... : ............. .

K4 Reflection and Transmission of Waves near Blocking; Ashwini K. Otta,
Splash Hydrodynamics, Marknesse, The Netherlands ...................................................... .

Session L: Nonlinear Wave Phenomena

L1 Improved Method for Obtaining the Integreation Space for the Computation of
Nonlinear Quadruplet Wave-Wave Interactions; Gerbrant van Vledder, Alkyon
Hydraulics Consultancy & Research, Emmerloord, The Netherlands ............................... ..

L2 A Study of Long Wave and Short Wave Interactions by Using A New Spectrum
Model; Ray-Qing Lin, Naval Surface Warfare Center, West Bethesda, MD; and Weijia
Kuang, University of Maryland, West Bethesda, MD ....................................................... .

L3 Effect of Wind Wave Spectrum Fluctuation on Non-Linear Spectrum Evolution;
I. V. Lavrenov, Arctic and Antarctic Research Institute, Sf. Petersburg, Russia .................. .

L4 Some New Results of Non-Linear Energy Transfer in Wind Wave Spectrum;
I. V. Lavrenov, Arctic and Antarctic Research Institute, st. Petersburg, Russia .................. .

L5 On Conservation of the Constants of Motion in the Models of Nonlinear Wave
Interaction, Andrei Pushkarev and Vladmir Zakharov, Waves and Solutions, LLC,
Gilbert, ZA ..................................................................................................................... .

L6 Nonlinear Dynamics of Rogue Waves; M. Onorato, A.R. Osborne, and M. Serio,
University of Torino, Torino, Italy ...................................................................................... .

L7 Wind Waves Sources Terms: Constraints Related to Nonlinear Energy Fluxes,
Donald T. Resio, Chuck Long, and Barbara Tracy, U.S. Army Engineer Research and
Development Center, Vicksburg, MS and C. L. Vincent, Naval Research Laboratory,
Stennis Space Center, MS ............................................................................................... .

Poster Session

P1 A Nowcast Tool to Assess Wave Parameters in Coastal Areas; Carlos
Ventura Soares, Instituto Hydrografico, Lisboa, Portugal; Eugen Rusu, Galati University,
Romania, Portugal; and Emanuel F. Coelho, Instituto Hydrografico, Lisboa, Portugal;
Antonio A. Pires Silva, Instituto Superior Tecnico, Lisboa, Portugal; Oleg Makarynskyy,
Odessa Hydrometeorologicallnstittue, Ukraine, Portugal ................................................ ..

P2 A Long-Term Wave Hindcast for the New Zealand Coast: Richard
Gorman, The National Institute of Water and Atmospheric Research, Hamilton, New
Zealand and Andrew Laing, The National Institute of Water and AtmospheriC Research,
Wellington, New Zealand ................................................................................................. .

P3 High Rates of Wave Growth from Storms Affecting the East Coast of
New Zealand, Andrew Laing, The Nationallnstitute'of Water and AtmospheriC Research,
Wellington, New Zealand and Richard Gorman, The National Institute of Water and
AtmospheriC Research, Hamilton, New Zealand ............................................................ ..

P4The Perils of Coastal Wave Simulations in High Latitude Domains Using 3G
Spectral Wave Modeling, Robert E. Jensen, U.S. Army Engineer Research and
Development Center ......................... .............................................................................. ..

P5Theoretical and Observational Study of the Response Wave Directions to
Changing Wind Directions for Inhomogeneous Wave Fields, Li Luping, Huang Peiji,
and Chen Xueying, First Institute of Oceanography, Qingdao, P.R. China ........................ .