European Coasts - An Introductory Survey
Chapter 2: The impact of the sea

2.3 Storm surges

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Fig 48: Record of the water level at Vlissingen (Flushing, the Netherlands) during the 1953 storm surge Fig 49: Erosion of a beach profile during a storm surge Fig 50: Position of the coastline due to storm surges. Study of the position of the coastline can help to estimate the preservation distance (=R) which will be exceeded only with a chosen frequency

Wind which blows over the water exerts a shear stress. The surface water particles move in the wind direction. This results in a surface current. If a storm generates a current from the same direction over a long time, the current will cause large water elevations when it reaches the coast. The effects of wind shear may also combine with low atmospheric pressure. The result is a storm surge.

The height of the storm surge depends on the wind force and direction, the fetch (i.e. the length over which the storm generates the currents), the atmospheric pressure, the water depth and the coastal profile. The storm surge of February 1953 in the Netherlands, causing severe damage and loss of lives, was about 3 m above the predicted astronomical high water level (see Fig. 48).

The effect of a storm surge on a dune coast is a significant change in profile, characterized by severe erosion of the dune toe (see Fig. 49). Consequently, the coast recedes over a distance r (see Fig. 50). Yet, the coast will be restored during the following calmer seasons provided that it is stable (seen over a long period). In order to avoid damage to buildings, a distance R at the coast must be preserved for reversible erosion. A probability study can reveal the preservation distance (=R) which will only be exceeded with a chosen frequency (see Fig. 50).

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This page is from the book "European Coasts", produced in the framework of the Erasmus project under EC contract ICP 92-G-2013 and placed on the Internet in the framework of the PIANC-MarCom initiative on Education.